La Travesia: Chile’s Atacama to Bolivia’s Uyuni Salt Flats

Traversing from Chile’s Atacama Desert to the Uyuni Salt Flats in Bolivia ranks as one of my favorite trips of all time! Remote, authentic, exclusive, and luxurious, this choose-your-own-adventure experience brought us excellent hikes, stunning photo opportunities, intriguing wildlife and human history, and outstanding guides. The relatively new, eco-chic luxury lodges that we stayed in were mind-blowing, and the food was some of the very best I have had while traveling, a perfect blend of local flavors and fresh ingredients. We took ten days to explore this region with our own private guide and driver, and my only regret is that I would have liked to have spent even more time here. Read on to see pictures from this incredible journey!

 

Acclimatization in the Atacama

This traverse will have you sleeping as high as 13,300 feet and hiking at elevations of up to 16,000 feet or more, so proper acclimatization is essential. To accomplish this, we started our journey in San Pedro de Atacama, Chile (elevation 7,900’) and we spent five days exploring the desert dunes, barren salt flats, high-altitude wetlands, and geothermal fields there. The Atacama was so amazing that it’s worthy of its own photo blog – check out my pictures here!

a selfie of two hikers with the Atacama Desert's rocky red landscape of the Rainbow Valley behind them
two people on a horseback ride in the Salt Valley of San Pedro de Atacama, with sand dunes and Volcan Licancabur behind them
A vast, rocky red landscape of rock formations, salt deposits, and dunes in the Salt Valley of the Atacama
Two people smiling in a private hot springs pool at Puritama Hot Springs in the Atacama
thermal pools at el tatio geyser in the atacama desert

Bolivia’s Eduardo Avaroa Reserve

It was a quick and scenic one-hour drive from San Pedro de Atacama to the Bolivian border, where we immediately entered Eduardo Avaroa National Reserve. This day was my very favorite day of our entire trip. The altiplano landscapes were jaw-dropping and constantly changing, from multi-colored lakes framed by stark high-altitude volcanoes to shimmering salt flats and barren expanses of sand. We made multiple stops to get out of the 4 x 4 and explore, with highlights being the vibrant Lagunas Verde and Blanco, the Martian-like expanses of the Dali Desert, and the smoking fumaroles and boiling mud pots of El Geyser Sol de Mañana. The crimson hues of the flamingo-studded Laguna Colorado were unreal, contrasting starkly with the lake’s white borax salt deposits that stretched for miles.

 

Algae and reflecting mountains in Laguna Blanco in the Eduardo Avaroa Reserve
A few vehicles dwarfed by the looming Volcan Licancabur in Bolivia
A hiker photographing the emerald waters of Lago Verde in Eduardo Avaroa Reserve
A sandy expanse of desert and mountains in the Dali Desert in Eduardo Avaroa Reserve
vicunas walking across a colorful lake near Polques Hot Spring
Colorful pools of mud and mineral deposits against a red rocky background and blue sky with puffy clouds, el geyser sol de manana
A vast lake with red water and white salt deposits at Laguna Colorado Eduardo Avaroa Reserve
a bowl of quinoa and meat against the mountainous desert landscape of Eduardo Avaroa Reserve
view of pale blue waters and a volcanic backdrop at Explora Ramaditas Lodge in Bolivia

Explora Ramaditas Lodge: Remote Luxury

We ended this day at the incredible Ramaditas lodge, a secluded and minimalist eco-luxury retreat perched on its own, private, reflective lake at an elevation of 13,300’. We had enough time for a leisurely stroll down to the lake before dinner, and I felt like I was in a watercolor painting as we watched the evening light work its magic on the calm waters of the lake. The minimalist architecture of the lodge perfectly highlights the beauty of the surrounding landscapes, and I do regret that we only spent one night at Ramaditas. It’s an excellent launching point for myriad explorations and definitely worthy of at least two nights.

Explora's Ramaditas Lodge consists of wo small red buildings in front of a high-altitude volcano
A freshly made bed inside a wood-paneled room with huge picture windows showcasing an emerald lake and volcano at Explora Ramaditas Lodge
Common room at Explora Ramaditas lodge, with several white couches facing huge picture windows
A ceramic bowl on a dining room table at Explora Ramaditas Lodge with a golden yellow soup
Two bowls of food on a dining table at Explora Ramaditas lodge
Wooden dining table looking out over an expansive lake with beautiful volcanos at Explora Ramaditas Lodge

Tailored Excursions

Having our own driver, 4×4 vehicle, and local guide to ourselves meant that we got to choose exactly what we wanted to do each day, and the choices were impressive. Options included scenic drives, hikes ranging from flat, easy strolls to summiting high-altitude volcanoes, bird-watching in high-altitude lagoons, and visits to pictographs, ruins, and local Indigenous villages. Some of my favorite activities were our delectable and scenic picnic lunches, close-up encounters with viscachas (rabbit-like rodents), vicunas, and Darwin’s rheas, hiking through a technicolor valley punctuated by yardangs and hoodoos to see ancient pictograph panels, and encountering flamingos and llamas while enjoying magical light during evening and morning walks.

A guest at Explora Ramaditas checks the map with his private guide to prepare for the day's hike
Several llamas in front of a volcano, with Explora Ramaditas lodge visible in the background
Several dozen Chilean flamingos in a lake near Explora Ramaditas Lodge
High altitude steppe leading to a huge volcano with a large crater in Bolivia
Two hikers pose in front of a rocky yardang encountered on Explora's Travesia
A mother viscacha and her baby hiding under a rock in Bolivia
Verdant high-altitude wetlands next to eroded sandstone in the valley of the yardangs on Explora's Travesia
A hiker stands next to ancient pictographs showing human and animal figures in the valley of the yardangs on Explora's Travesia
A guide wearing a backpack hikes toward a sandstone rock outcrop in Bolivia
Dramatic, wind-eroded sandstone outcrops in the Yardangs Valley on the Explora Travesia
Llamas grazing in a green high-altitude wetland with a volcano looming behind in Bolivia's altiplano ecosystem
A lone Darwin's rhea stands against the colorful altiplano landscape in Bolivia
Outside view of Explora Chituca lodge at sunset, with colorful grasses and distant mountains
A man sitting on a couch next to local artwork inside Explora Chituca Lodge on the Travesia

Uyuni Salt Flats

We ended our traverse with three nights at the northern end of Bolivia’s Uyuni Salt Flats. The day we crossed the flats from the southern end to the northern tip was another highlight of the trip, with many stops to photograph the surreal landscapes around us and play with photographic perspective. In addition to the raw beauty and magnificence of the salt flats, we were stunned by the complete lack of other people, as our eco-lodge was situated in a remote outpost far from the crowds that flock to the town of Uyuni 1.5 hours away. Watching the vibrant hues of the setting sun reflected in the endless flats around us on our last night was a truly unforgettable experience – it really felt like heaven on Earth. The raw beauty and intriguing human history of the Uyuni Salt Flats give this place a spiritual feel, and you can learn more about Uyuni in this photo essay.

A dozen vicunas silhoutted against a mountainous background as they stand on the edge of the Uyuni Salt Flats
A single vehicle looks tiny compared to the endless expanse of flat and white that surround it under a sunny blue sky at the uyuni salt flats
Hexagonal patterns and visible salt crystals on the uyuni SAlt Flats
Incredible view of the vast white Uyuni Salt Flat framed by cacti on Isla Incahuasi
Two people enjoying a picnic lunch while seated in folding chairs next to a table on the vast, endless Uyuni Salt Flats
A funny photo showing a giant woman holding a tiny man on the uyuni salt flats
A white vehicle parked on reflective blue waters studded with salt crystals near Explora Uyuni Lodge
Explora Uyuni Lodge, a small, rectangular building perched on a rocky hilltop overlooking the Uyuni Salt Flats
Common area inside Explora Uyuni lodge, with white couches looking out huge poicture windows overlooking the uyuni salt flats at sunset
Guest bedroom inside Explora Uyuni Lodge, with a bed and two chairs next to a large picture window with a view of the Uyuni Salt Flats outside
Pastel colors in the sky, clouds, and salt flats at Explora Uyuni Lodge
A couple sitting in chairs next to a table, enjoying sundowner drinks against a colorful and reflective view of the sky and landscape at sunset in the Uyuni Salt Flats

When you are ready to experience the remote luxury and untamed beauty of the Atacama to Uyuni Travesia, get in touch so we can help plan your dream escape!

Your Wild Adventure Aficionado,

Alexis Alloway

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